The first row: I will push the tongue against the wall, meaning each row will have the tongue to be slotted into the previous row. Setting out: Before you can lay the boards starting hard up against one wall, you need to make sure you won't end up with a strip at the end less than mm wide mm is the minimum recommended width by the manufacturer. Measure the length of the room to determine how many rows there will be. For example, room is 4m long exactly mm.
Divide that by mm and you will have 6. The last board will be mm x 0. This is way more than the mm minimum so you are OK to start laying. Always make sure the joists are clean and free of any dust before laying boards down. I lay chipboard flooring down dry initially for two rows before fixing anything: First off I lay the first row down dry and cut the last board in to length. The off-cut from this board can then be used to start the second row which I will also lay down before having fixed anything in place.
Once I am happy that I can fit these boards together squarely and straight and nothing needs adjusting I will mark the positions of the joists with a marker pen, slide the floor boards back out of the way temporarily, glue the joists and then replace the first two rows. Using a combination of wedges against the wall and a large length of timber to strike against the boards edge avoid hitting the tongue or groove directly with a hammer I will manoeuvre the boards until I am happy with them.
Put one screw in the first row at each joist and then ensure the second row is tight against it before putting one screw at the point of each joist too.
Joists: Your sub-floor joists should be at mm centres meaning the edge of the boards always falls on a joist too. Mass screw the boards down: Once I have laid rows and depending on the time it has taken glue will go off in 30 minutes depending on temperature I will stop laying boars for a moment, sweep the floor off and use the chalk line to mark lines onto the flooring representing where the joists are.
This will be easy as you will have initially marked the position of each joist on the first row and will still be able to see the joists at the most recent part laid. The more times the sheets are lifted, the less they tend to go back down tightly and then they start creaking badly. Only a thought though. Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 5 - Sep 6 th , , pm. Thanks for the input. The printed side goes up I assume? How do you start a run? And I am trying to work out if the tounge or groove goes against the wall so to speak.
I am assuming that the groove should be on the 'open' end of the board, ready to accept the next sheet? Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 6 - Sep 7 th , , am. Sandy; I wouldn't recommend cutting off the tongue and groove to allow possible access in the future. It is easy enough to cut an access hole in chipboard if you ever need to.
Lec, I put the groove against the wall, leaving a small gap for expansion, makes it easier to apply glue to the joints. Plus if the joists are not completely flat it is easier to fit the groove over the tongue. Make sure the room is square, if not you may have to cut the board against the wall.
Make sure the first row is perfectly straight and get the joints clamped as tight as you can before screwing down. If you don't get them sqaure the difference magnifies as you go and you won't be able to get the joints to clamp up on later joints. Hope that makes sense. Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 7 - Sep 7 th , , am. For what this may be worth. The few times have laid this type of flooring I have not screwed any boards it in place until all the boards have been laid.
Once the floor is fully laid then I flick a chalk line to indicate the position of the floor joists. With this method you can easily correct any discrepancies before finally fixing the boards. Also for what its worth when I positioned the joists I set them at mm centres this makes sure where possible to have a joist positioned at every mm. Be using 18 or 25mm boards. You guys know I produce guides on various aspects of cabinetry and joinery do you think it would be worth while producing one on this subject?
Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 8 - Sep 7 th , , am. If you glue and lose lay, in all but the smallest rooms, which won't run out of square anyway, the glue will set before you get chance to correct any out of squaredness.
Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 9 - Sep 7 th , , am. So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall? Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 10 - Sep 7 th , , am. Lectrician wrote on Sep 7 th , , am: So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall?
Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 11 - Sep 7 th , , am. Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 12 - Sep 7 th , , am. Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 13 - Sep 7 th , , pm.
Lectrician wrote on Sep 7 th , , am: woodsmith wrote on Sep 7 th , , am: Lectrician wrote on Sep 7 th , , am: So you dont cut the tounge off the long edge of the first board where it meets the wall? Re: Chipboard Floor Reply 14 - Sep 7 th , , pm. Even after using floor-board clamps when fitted. AFAIK the imprint identifies which way the tongue and grooves fit together best, ie all either "This side up" -- or all the other way. Thomas Prufer.
Depends on the tongue and groove. The big tapered ones are designed so that it's easier to lift individual boards, when laid the right way. Do it wrong and you have to start from the last wall you laid, then work back. I certainly wouldn't lift and turn it. Chipboard flooring wrong way up!
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